Home!

Both arrived home all safe and well with 1800 miles and 6 countries visited.

What next? Well saving to pay off the outrageous cost of Norway first!!

June 1st

So we left our little base of 2 days in Eidfjord, a place I would recommend, well at least if you like sleepy villages draped with dramatic mountain and water scenery, motorbikes purring away ready for another day's adventure...

When does a bend never end? When are you always turning left on yourself, going around in circles but not retracing your steps. And all this in the dark. No, not a Norwegian riddle but the road east out of Eidfjord which has two long corkscrew tunnels. We didn't know this in advance and found the experience quite disorientating. Not sure how many rotations we did but I would guess around ten, almost dizzy at the end.

Having gained the best part of 1000m in altitude we were close to the snow line again, part of the Hardangervidda National Park. We stopped at what is supposedly Norway's most visited natural site the 150m high waterfall at Voringfossen. It was amusing to read the guidebook saying it had up to 42 coaches in the car park at one time, probably around 2000 folk. Well, dad and I, rode around the empty car park and stopped almost at the viewing platform's edge, only the park wardens, busy setting the new season's safety tape, for company.

Higher still and we were on the snow covered rolling plateaux which makes up Hardangervidda. The road running alongside the spectacular Bergen to Oslo railway. The whole area was scattered with wooden clad huts, the summer holiday retreats for Norwegians. I often wondered what Scotland would be like if we scattered such accommodation in the wilds. Would it be for good or bad? Despite lots of huts near the road, it was in this area a couple of years ago that two Scottish cross country skiers died in bad weather, which locals had told them not to go out in. Further along the road is one of Norway's largest ski centres at Geilo, though hardly large by French standards.

Loosing height more slowly we left the snow behind and enjoyed, our now daily ritual, of a coffee by a lake in a stunning setting.

Colin had recommended at trip called Norway in a Nutshell based out of Bergen which involves a trip on the Bergen-Oslo train, a bus ride, a fjord trip and a spectacular ride on the Flam (pronounced Flom) Banna railway). We had pretty much covered the other elements to decided to go on the little Flambanna ride. This is now purely for tourists but was originally built to take goods from the sea level at Flam right up to Myrdal at 900m to meet the Bergen-Oslo train line. It does this in such a short distance (20k) that it is the steepest non cog railway in the world. Watching the world go by as we climbed the steep valley, seeing Aurlandfjord drop way, was a pleasant break and soporific experience in the heat. Dad briefly dozing off despite or because of the clickity-clackity railway and the huge drops below. After an hour on the way up, and a 10 minute stop at Myrdal, we rejoined the train for the way down.

During the descent we spoke to Manda and made a change of plan. We had debated joining the ferry back home from Bergen on Tuesday or Thursday. It turned out I was wrong and the option was Monday or Thursday. Monday being the following day. I had been thinking we had already seen much of the spectacular scenery of Fjord and high mountain plateaux and more would be just pleasant, and somewhat expensive repetition, so was inclined towards the Tuesday ferry. Discussing this with dad he was of similar mind and we decided to head to the ferry in Bergen. Manda did a fantastic job of booking and confirming everything online, as we enjoyed a fish and chips tea in a deserted open-air railway carriage restaurant, surrounded by more fjordland scenery.

On the 100 mile dash to Bergen that night, via Voss, I was taken with how fantastic the now main road from Oslo to Bergen is, surely one of the most stunning roads linking two many cities in the world, as it passed through impossible valleys, snow-clad tops and vertiginous waterfalls.

Stopping to wait for dad to catch up I phoned ahead to book a hotel room and was surprised to find out that due to a big concert in Bergen that it was almost full. We may have got one of the last rooms in the whole city, in the Thon Bryggen Hotel. On the final run in to Bergen I thought that it would be Norway's most famous composer, Grieg, who's concert was filling the town. So you can imagine our surprise as we hit the city centre to see lots of fans dressing like they were going to a rock concert. We saw more and more folk in long hair and black t-shirts. Our surprise was compounded when, having located our hotel, to find that it was on one edge of the large park that was hosting the concert. The bass was thumping away with screaming guitars and vocals as we unpacked just laughing a bemused laugh to ourselves. The hotel receptionist informed us it was the ageing rock band Kiss that were playing. A band that I saw about 25 years ago, and they were not young then!

After showering and at around midnight the concert ended. Dad and I just hung out the windows of our 7th floor hotel room and watched the amusing antics of the drunken revellers pouring out through the narrow space between the hotel and the park entrance.

Once the majority had gone we enjoyed, a still light, midnight stroll along with the loud revellers, around Bryggen and the harbour. Both of us were still stunned at the contrast from this morning's sleepy and idyllic Eidfjord to this.

Ambling back we saw the huge ferry that tomorrow would take us home and mark the end of our fantastic road, rail and sea voyage. Quite an incredible trip for one that was heading to the Alps the day we left!

Pictures to follow

The Blog photo element is not working just right so I have uploaded a pile to


http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/AlanMacMackie/08MayNorway

Best just to hit the slide show button, sit back and wish you were here. Missing everyone.... really we are!

Sat 31st: Eidfjord

So today, is a rest day. What will we do? Easy enough it is a short walk to the Eidford Norwegian Tourist Information which being situated in reputedly one of Norway's most picturesque villages would be a mine of information. Well only if it was open. It doesn't on Saturdays apparently. Obviously, Norway doesn't get tourists on a Saturday…

However, it gets more surreal. There is a number for a boat company that does a trip from here around the fjords. So I call the number. After many rings, I hear a voice but hard to make out as a police siren, or something is going off in the background. I wait a little to let the noise pass but it does not. So I ask if he speaks English, standard phrase for us Brits abroad. "A little" is his reply. I ask about the boat trip, siren noise still loud in the background. He says, and try a Norwegian accent, "I am in a ambulance right now, can you call back in a couple of hours?". I check the number and yes it is the number of the boat tour company! Was he the driver, a passenger or even a patient!

So with no prospect of a trip we head over to the Coop to buy our breakfast, lunch and dinner. Little more than a frozen lasagne, some bread, cheese, ham, 4 cans of Norwegian cider (delicious) and a jar of coffee…. Guess how much? Go on have a go… Well first in Norwegian Kroner… just under NK500… so what is that in old money… try £50!!!!! And this is us trying to save money.

After breakfast I decide to refuel the bikes and let dad enjoy the heat, in the sun by the wild river that flows just feet from our lounge. When on the second bike, I notice a boat coming into the harbour. I ride down, it looks like the trip runs after all, so I ask a Danish woman to hold the boat while I get dad. A mad rush later and we are sweating on the back of a Catamaran as she blasts up Eidflord, and then on to Sona Fjord. These are both the most easterly and most impressive arms to Hardanger Fjord. A will let the pictures do the talking on that one.

(Very expensive frozen lasagne and cider for tea!)

Friday 30th.

The road north from Rysstad starts off much like the Scottish Trossachs and if we had no sheep eating the trees then would be very similar to heading Calendar to Glencoe. As we gained height towards the Ski area of Hovden at 960m there was still plenty of snow about and many frozen lakes. We nipped off the bikes to enjoy a brew on the shore and was surprised to see a heat haze raising from the lake. It was warm right enough, but odd to be next to the ice.

We then dropped down on to the main Oslo to Bergen road although hardly busy. This gained height until the whole area was snow covered. On our right, heading west was the Hardangervidda National Park an area of high ground mostly over 1000m with round rather than dramatic peaks.




We then dropped down on to the main Oslo to Bergen road although hardly busy. This gained height until the whole area was snow covered. On our right, heading west was the Hardangervidda National Park an area of high ground mostly over 1000m with round rather than dramatic peaks. Next came a very long and cold tunnel, I think it was around 8km. Not much fun on the bike, except for the Messherschmitt sound my engine made under full acceleration, reverberating off the tunnel walls.

Next came a very long and cold tunnel, I think it was around 8km. Not much fun on the bike, except for the Messherschmitt sound my engine made under full acceleration, reverberating off the tunnel walls. Back into the open and a stop at a coop for lunch and a trip around Rodal Church set in a very alpine valley with peaks and yellow flowers its background.

From there through Odda, supposedly the ugliest town in Norway and the centre of its iron smelting business. Situated at the head of a fjord, it was hardly Coventry or Cumbernauld, but still jarred somewhat with what had until now been very scenic. Our final drive was much like the old Loch Lomond road and the Oban to Fort William road mixed in as we picked our way around the Fjordside to Eidfjord and a well earned day off.

More photos

In case you are not bored of our trip yet I have posted some photos here

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/AlanMacMackie/08MayNorway



Any time we have fast broadband connection I will post some more.

Thr 29th Too Much snow on the Road

It rained overnight but by the time we lumbered out of our sleeping bags , (dad a bit stiff), the sun had come out and dried everything up. A quick coffee… Manda that stove is brilliant… and off we headed up the Fjord, for breakfast (Croque Messieurs but not as we know it) at Rykstad then off to a wee road recommended on the Gsers website.

Well what a road. I know it sounds like exaggeration but we drove through snow that had been carved out, either side of the road, and in places was easily 30 feet deep. Fortunately none on the road. We stopped regularly to take in the views of gently curved hills with frozen lakes all covered in snow, what we didn't know was that this went on for 50 miles, and we were coming back the same way!




Our destination was Lysefjord, which involved a very steep descent form the 1400m plateau down to sea level over 27 hairpin bends, including a bend in a tunnel. Dad was a bit anxious about this but we tackled the descent without incident, to arrive just as the Stavanger ferry was preparing to depart. Another coffee and a look at the return journey.

As was well until dad repeated my mistake of last year… that was he forgot that motorbikes fall over unless they are moving forward. So at a particularly tight bend he slowed to a stop and the bike fell over. Only a dented pride and some scratches on the engine-bars to show for it. Anyway, the bike was picked up and dad was not any worse for wear. Well probably just a bit shoogily until his confidence came back on the hair pins.

So 50 miles back along the road and we found a nice motel to stay in at a slightly less exhorbitant rate and had a first class meal. Further north tomorrow but on straight forward roads from now on.

Wed 28th.

The sound of trees splitting woke us up to glorious sun. We made sure we had a big breakfast to try and get our monies worth from the astounding hotel bill. I even went back to check the price and the exchange rate. And yes it was £174 for the two of us. Turns out this is the only hotel in Grimstad and quite nice, so could ask what it wanted. With no great plan and desperate to get moving from the suffocating heat, we hit a narrow road heading north and immediately our spirits lifted, as we enjoyed bend after bend in tarmac heaven. It was much like the Trossachs with lots of lakes and trees and no traffic. We even stopped by a beach in the sun and had a brew. The contrast with endless dull, flat motorway miles could hardly be more pronounced. Could it get better than this? There was even photos to take. Lunch was in a Kafeteria in Avje, a rather expensive £30 for 2 burgers and chips! Even if we could have as many coffees with it as we liked…. How many coffees can you drink at one sitting?

















Having visited the tourist information earlier in Grimstad we now had a Norway map and guides to the various regions. It would appear that even at the end of May, much of Norway is closed, so given the great weather, the cost of the hotels, we elected to stay at an open all season campsite by Bystandlander Fjord. So after a mere 57 miles for the day, we found a spot by the beach and erected the tent. Later I took a blast around the fjord and picked up 2 hot dogs for tea. Sumptious living it is not!

Tue 27th:

We slept reasonably well. My earplugs keeping out most of dad's snoring but with the Sun heating the tent around 8am it was time to get up. We stopped at a "Baggery" for some Danish Pastries and rolls which we ate over coffee at Ringkobing.


There is a stretch of land protected from the North Sea by dunes on one side and with a lake, called Ringkobing Fjord on the other side. This is clearly holiday country with lots of campsites and holiday huts. The large farms and larger houses all had thatched roofs.



By this point we were just about done with Denmark, a flat windy land, with more windmills per head of population than anywhere else and decided to dash for the 2:30 ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand. The Satnav calculate if we rode non stop for the next 3 hours we would get there at 1:30. So off we went along wide and very straight country roads through Hostebro, Viborg and then eventually onto dual carriageway south of Alborg. The sun was a joy but the wind a pain. A refuel and bum rubbing session then back on the bikes every northward.

It was two happy bikers that collapsed into the luxury leather seats of the huge ferry, enjoying our first proper meal since yesterday's cheese pizza. The sun belted down on the calm Skagerrak that separated us from Norway.




Our simple plan was to find the tourist information with some local accommodation and bike no further that day. However, the Kristiansand Tourist Information was not to be found. This large and busy town proclaimed it the most popular place for Norwegians to holiday but dear knows where they stay because we drove round and round, past beautiful coves with red painted holiday chalets, but not a B&B or hotel in site. We followed a couple of signs with a picture of beds but they ended in dead ends or roads under construction. The first hotel we found was full. Thirty minutes later we found another. I went in, they had spaces, for £170 a night per room but it was Hobson's choice. So Grimstad it was. And its not a bad looking place, even at 9pm!

Just found dad's photos. Lunch stop at Kappeln
Can tell if I am smileing at the pospect of camping or the joy of knowing we have finally found somewhere to sleep!

It was a despondent couple of bikers who woke to heavy rain. Dad because biking in the rain isn't much fun and me because I wondered if this meant that the weather forecast that caused the change of plan was wrong and we would be missing the alps and having bad weather. The doubts continued, over breakfast, while I pondered how you can prepare a soft boiled egg that is also cold.

The autobahn took us just North of Hanover on very wet roads though not raining so hard and heading for Hamburg. With a hundred miles done and just short of Hamburg the fuel warning light came on, so time for a refuel where dad made a friend. We had just parked up and were walking around stretching our legs and easing our aching backsides when dad greeted an older man with a cheery hello. The old man was so taken a back that he reached out his hand, and as they were both walking in the same direction, dad held out his hand. So for several paces they walked hand in hand, laughing and nodding to each other though not making any sense either!

We were having a dilemma for our route. We didn't want to spend so much boring time on the autobahn but neither did the scenery offer much to appeal. So we decided to head another 100 miles north and leave at what looked like a scenic road at Schleswig and around the coastal part of the most northerly and easterly part of Germany.

But first we missed a turnoff in Hamburg which meant we rode ride through the centre of this busy city.
The stress levels shot up as I kept one eye on the Satnav for directions, one on the traffic, pedestrians, road signs and traffic lights and the other in the rear view mirror for dad. At one tricky section he didn't make the traffic light so I had no choice but to stop uneasily on a traffic island so he could so were I was.

Thirty minutes of downtown Hamburg and back on the motorway. The sat nav took us over the motorway and immediately down a single track road. What a shock to the system having spent 2 days just going straight on. Then onward along fast country roads to eventually stop for lunch by the harbour at Kappeln. With yachts moored alongside and a paddle wheel steamer it clearly would be popular in the summer, but in the drizzle with heavy grey skies, looked just a bit miserable. I am not sure Kappeln receives many visitors from the UK, because not a single sign was in English making the menu interesting reading. Eventually, we deciphered Pizza with Cheese, bacon and salami.

The coastal road was dissapointing as only glimpses of the coast were reveled but mostly we concentrated on keeping the bikes upright as the strong easterly wind lashed us through breaks in the trees. Eventually onto Flensburg, a picturesque town on a river, and the last place in Germany. With the sun coming out everthing looked up.

Denmark at last. A blast 70k to Kolding and more fuel plus a bit of Danish Culture, a service station Danish Pastry with coffee. Now we turned west, the plan being to stay somewhere around Esbjerg and then head north up the west coast of Denmark, the so called Strands.

That seems like a reasonable plan until you find Esbjerg an industrial town and the coastal communities have no B&B and a very rare hotel, with no room at the Inn. So with despair beginning to set in we headed for a campsite to use our emergency tent. This took us along a road with danger tanks signs all along. It took a bit of figuring out, but we were in fact surrounded by a big tank training ground.

The campsite was sheltered from the North Sea by large sand dunes and once the tent was pitched and organised we went to see. Miles upon miles of sandy beach stretched into the horizon lit by the now set sun. We looked out across the North sea with nothing but water between us and Scotland. Time for bed.

just a short one from the ferry. a thousand miles under our belt and
we are only just arriving. all well more later
--
Cheers

Alan

Alan: Sunday 25th
I guess no one would start a trip to Norway from Scotland by getting a ferry to Zeebrugge but cie la vie. Anyway, we woke to lashing rain and felt somewhat despondent but we were premature, as on arrive the rain had more or less passed. We had met a couple of Glasgow bikers also on their first European trip so shared a laugh as we parked up just beyond passport contol, to get "organised". In reality though this was a little bit of hesitation before we hit Europe for real. Not that twice around the Zeebrugge docks counts but at least we got held up waiting at a huge bridge over the canal to suggest we were "en continent".

With the sun occasionally breaking through the thin cloud and drying up the wet roads, it really started to become humid. I radioed dad how he was doing and he said fine. I suggested a stop to change clothes as I was feeling somewhat warm with my vest and shirt on under my motorbike stuff. You can imagine how astounded I was as dad had two fleece tops and 3 vests! Anyway 3 layers lighter and he was a much happier man.

Our route took us through 3 countries in 3 hours. Hard to believe Belgium and Holland are so small.

Motorway all the way meant we didn't see much as we passed Brugge, Antwerpen, Eindhoven, Duisburg and Dortmund to gladly discover a hotel just south west of Hanover around 7:30

Not sure we are sampling much of Germany though, as we are staying in a Tulip Hotel (read Travel lodge) and just had a huge burger in Michael's America Diner. Still, a hot bath awaits to ease a rather aching back side.

Tomorrow Denmark!

Alan: Written in the North Sea off Berwick….

Its funny how plans can change. Maybe it is good to be flexible but it certainly adds to the stress and maybe excitement, if that well made plan suddenly changes direction. And so it is with us. Instead of heading east and south towards the alps we are heading North to Norway.

We now have a Lonely planet guide, a map with Norway on 3 pages and a little more detail. Looks like we will dash through Belgium, Holland and Germany to Denmark. Then either cross over to Sweden and up to Oslo or get a ferry from Northern Denmark to Khristansand in South Norway.

Cousin Andrew has put us in touch with a Norwegian biking colleague to help us find some good roads.

So for now I am downloading a different set of maps on to the GPS and then off for tea.

I have to say there is a fair bit of swell building and my memories of seasickness in the Southern Ocean are not to far away and in a cabin with no view… anyway I am sure all will be fine at this end.

However it was nearly a tearful goodbye. I could tell my normally ebullient mum was holding back as she said very little, other than the instruction to look after my dad. Having Cameron and Manda there helped I am sure. Don't worry mum we will be fine.

Change of plan

Suddenly, its all a bit frantic, last night I spent ages on the Web trying to find a good weather forecast but all forecasts had wet everyday for the whole of our trip.

So this morning decided to head to Norway where the weather is set fine. This is due to two high pressure systems locking a low pressure over the centre of Europe. High pressure in Scandinavia.

We don't even have decent maps of Norway!

Don't know where we will be staying...

Don't know which routes to take...

And leaving at 2pm today.

Sounds like an adventure to me!

This picture is taken from last year's trip around the northern half of Ireland. This was on the beach at what was my favourite spot and one I had not even heard of, Achill Isle. Bizarrely, every year whole families travelled right across Ireland to Kirkintilloch, near Glasgow, for the tattie howking. I learned this from the shop keeper who was married to someone from my own home town. Apparently there had been a famous incident when many Achill Tattie Howkers had been killed in a big fire while staying in a hall in Kirkintilloch... Small world.

So what is planned for this trip? Good question. Nothing at all really, except the return ferry trip Rosyth-Zeebrugge and the first 2 nights accomodation in The Vosges town of Gerardmer.

After that who knows? Just go where the sun is shinning, the tarmac sound and the roads bendy.

Realistically though, we have two spots in mind, Grindelwald under the Eiger and Chamonix. If the weather is inclement then we may head south and drop into family near Cannes.

We have maps, GPS and some Euros, a tent on the back (emergencies only!) and hopefully our sense of humor matching our sense of adventure.

Well here are the the intrepid duo, not on this trip but on a 3 days introduction to off road motorbiking in Malaga. Great fun and quite a challenge. The scenery was spectacular with precipitous drops inviting the unwary, or rather focussing the mind. None of that on this trip. We plan to stay safely on the road and hope that any big drops have armco barriers to keep us on the right side.

What this bike can do!

I guess you wouldn't be surprised to know that is not a picture of me....

It is the same bike though. BMW 1200GS. So it is capable, just the numpty on top somewhat underskilled!

I am pretty certain neither dad nor I want to end up in the position where this is the kind of photo we have of each other!